The last thing I have to do to the wood before the art is applied and the board populated is to cut the slot for the T-molding. Brad printed the art on high quality air release material and then laminated it by hand. Brad is a great guy who prints high quality artwork for arcade cabinets and pinball machines among other things. The art was printed for me by Brad Bowman of Bowman Signs in Milford, CT. I love spacey cool blues and I asked Josh to incorporate purple to match the buttons and T-Molding I had purchased for the cabinet. I had a general idea of what I wanted to the art to look like and we went back and forth for a bit and settled on a spacey design with some cool purple weave looking control areas. This control panel was designed by the talented Josh White with splendid artistic direction from myself. And (2) thread the screw into a crimping tool with a screw cutting slot and just slice it off and unscrew to de-bur. If you need to trim a screw down, the two methods I like are (1) winding a couple of nuts onto it, trim the excess with a dremel or similar tool, and then unscrew the nuts to de-bur the screw. Since we don't want any of the screws to come up farther than the surface of the CP, I bought 3/4" long screws for the joysticks and they are able to catch the threads without coming up too high. I started by drilling a small pilot hole and then using a forstner bit to counter sink the hole so the Tee-Nut would sit below the surface. It is sturdy but I didn't want bolts on top of my artwork, I wanted to have as little as possible on the control panel so I went with Tee-Nuts. Carriage bolt mounting requires 4 holes drilled through the control panel for each joystick. A common solution for joystick mounting is carriage bolts. For joysticks and other hardware, such as the clamps that hold the CP to the cabinet, you need something with a bit more strength. Arcade buttons only require a hole the size of the button to be drilled and a plastic nut holds the button in place. I don't think I've talked about why I wanted to use Tee-Nuts or what they are. Not a huge deal, all I had to do was route out a little more of the recess so the trackball housing could slide up a little and we're all square. Next time I will drill the hole for the trackball, install the trackball, center it with the trim and THEN trace the recess under the panel. This happened because the hole I drilled was ever so slightly lower than where it should have been.
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